1. What Does Cat Training Actually Mean?

Cats do not need obedience training in the same way dogs do. A cat is not wired to work for approval, and it will not sit on command simply to please you. What a cat can do, very well, is learn that certain behaviours lead to good things, and that certain places and routines are safe and predictable. Cat training is really the process of shaping that learning so your cat lives comfortably in your home and you live comfortably with your cat.

In practice, cat training is mainly about the following:

• Litter habits, so the box is the obvious and preferred toilet
• Scratching appropriate surfaces, so your furniture survives
• Accepting handling and grooming, so brushing and check-ups are not a fight
• Carrier training, so vet visits are less stressful
• Name recognition, so your cat knows when you are talking to it
• Coming when called, which is useful and sometimes lifesaving
• Household boundaries, such as what is and is not a good place to climb
• Positive interactions with people and other pets
• Reducing unwanted behaviours by meeting the need behind them

Training should always focus on rewarding the behaviour you want, rather than punishing the behaviour you do not. Cats learn through repetition, consistency and positive associations, and a cat that is scolded usually does not learn what to do instead. It simply learns to be wary of you. It also helps to remember that every cat is different. Temperament, age and previous experience all shape how quickly a cat learns and what it finds rewarding or frightening.

2. Before You Start Training a Cat

Good training starts before the first treat is offered. Understanding where your cat has come from, and setting up a home that makes the right behaviour easy, will save you weeks of frustration.

Understand the Cat's Background

Ask as much as you can about the cat's history, because it tells you what to expect and where to begin:

• Was the cat raised indoors, or did it grow up outdoors?
• Was it previously owned, and if so, what was its routine like?
• Was it living in a shelter?
• Was it living on the street?
• Has it been handled by people, and does it enjoy it?
• Is it comfortable around other animals?
• Does it already use a litter box?
• Does it have any known behavioural triggers, such as loud noises or particular people?

Set Up the Environment

A cat is far easier to train when its environment supports the behaviour you want. If the litter box is in a noisy corner and there is no scratching post, the cat will do what cats do, and you will end up fighting nature. Make sure you have:

• A litter box in a quiet, accessible spot
• Separate food and water areas, away from the litter box
• A scratching post or pad
• A hiding space where the cat can retreat
• A comfortable bed or resting area
• A few toys, including at least one wand toy
• A cat carrier, left out and accessible
• A safe climbing or perching space, such as a shelf or cat tree

3. The First Few Days After Adoption

The first days matter most for shelter cats and street cats, because everything about the new home is unfamiliar. Cats rely on smell, routine and hiding places to feel secure, and walking into a new house, however loving, is a major change. A cat that hides, refuses to be touched or barely eats in the first days is not rejecting you. It is coping, and it needs time.

• Do not expect the cat to interact with everyone straight away, and keep visitors to a minimum at first
• Give it a quiet, secure room where it can settle without constant foot traffic
• Allow it to hide, since hiding is a healthy coping strategy and not a problem to fix
• Maintain consistent feeding and litter routines, since predictability builds security
• Let the cat approach you, rather than reaching for it first
• Introduce other pets gradually, rather than letting everyone meet at once
• Keep doors, windows and balconies secure, since a nervous cat can bolt at the first chance
• Do not force physical contact, such as picking up, cuddling or pulling the cat out of hiding
• Do not allow a newly adopted cat outdoors straight away, since it has not yet bonded to its new home and may not find its way back

For a broader look at the early days, read our guide to the pre-parenting stage of cat adoption.

Signs the Cat Is Becoming Comfortable

• Eating normally and finishing meals
• Using the litter box consistently
• Grooming itself, which is a sign of relaxation
• Exploring the room and then the home
• Playing with toys
• Resting openly rather than hiding
• Approaching people voluntarily

4. Training a Kitten

Kittens are learning how to live in a human household, and they are usually eager and quick learners. The skills they pick up in the first few months, such as accepting handling, using the litter box and scratching in the right places, tend to last for life. This is also the window when gentle, positive exposure makes the biggest difference. For more on why early experiences matter, read why socialising a cat matters more than you think.

Name Recognition

• 1
  Say the kitten's name in a clear, friendly tone when it is calm and nearby.
• 2
  Reward when it looks toward you, even if it does not come over, with a tiny treat or a moment of play.
• 3
  Repeat consistently, several times a day in short bursts.
• 4
  Do not use the name only when something unpleasant happens, such as a vet visit, a bath or a scolding, or the kitten will learn that its name predicts something bad.

Litter Training

Most kittens take to the litter box very quickly. Provide an accessible box in a quiet place, show the kitten the box after meals and naps, keep it clean, and reward appropriate use. Never punish accidents. See section 9 for the full litter training guide.

Scratching Training

Provide scratching posts or pads, and place them near the areas the kitten already likes to scratch. Reward the kitten when it uses them, and gently redirect it when it starts to scratch furniture. See section 10 for more detail.

Handling

Gradually teach the kitten to tolerate having its paws touched, its ears looked at, being brushed, having its nails trimmed, being picked up and being placed in a carrier. Keep each session short and positive, and always finish before the kitten gets restless. Sections 11 and 12 cover carrier and handling training in detail.

5. Training an Adult Cat

An adult cat can absolutely learn new behaviours. The old saying about old dogs and new tricks does not hold for cats either, as long as the training is patient, rewarding and works with the cat's personality. Adult cats can learn:

• Name recognition
• Recall, or coming when called
• Better litter habits
• Scratching appropriate surfaces
• Carrier comfort
• Tolerance of grooming and nail trimming
• Handling for veterinary checks
• Household routines
• Basic tricks, such as sit, high five or touching a target, using positive reinforcement

6. Training a Senior Cat

Senior cats can still learn, and gentle training is good for them. It keeps their minds active, strengthens your bond and helps them cope with the changes that come with age. The focus for seniors is less about teaching new skills and more about keeping life comfortable, predictable and manageable. For more on the later stages of life, read our complete guide to caring for your ageing cat.

• Maintain familiar routines, since older cats often find change stressful
• Use gentle handling, especially around stiff joints
• Keep up carrier training, so vet visits, which become more frequent, are less stressful
• Make sure the litter box is easy to enter, with a low edge
• Keep reinforcing appropriate scratching, using posts that are stable and easy to reach
• Encourage gentle movement through play
• Offer mental stimulation, such as food puzzles and sniffing games

Make Training Easier for a Senior

• Use shorter sessions, often just a couple of minutes
• Use rewards the cat truly values, since appetite and interest can change with age
• Avoid requiring difficult jumps or movements
• Adapt training if the cat has arthritis, reduced vision or reduced hearing, for example by using touch or scent cues
• Do not mistake pain or cognitive changes for bad behaviour. A senior cat that stops using the litter box, cries at night or seems confused may be unwell, and needs a vet, not a lecture

7. Training a Cat Adopted From a Shelter

Shelter cats need their own section, because shelter histories vary enormously. One shelter cat may have lived in a loving home for years before being surrendered, while another may have spent months in a cage. You cannot assume anything, so watch and learn.

What to Expect

A shelter cat may:

• Already use a litter box reliably
• Already be comfortable with people
• Be accustomed to other cats
• Be comfortable indoors
• Be frightened by sudden changes
• Be stressed by the transition, even if it seemed calm in the shelter
• Have developed behavioural habits specific to the shelter environment, such as hiding at the back of a cage or being wary of hands reaching in

First Priorities

• 1
  Establish a routine for feeding, play and quiet time.
• 2
  Give the cat a safe space, such as a spare room with a hiding spot.
• 3
  Introduce household sounds gradually, such as the television, the mixer and the doorbell.
• 4
  Build trust with calm presence, food rewards and play.
• 5
  Reinforce good litter and scratching habits, rather than assuming they are fixed.
• 6
  Introduce other animals slowly, using the steps in section 16.
• 7
  Begin basic handling and carrier training, in short, positive sessions.

Above all, do not assume a shelter cat's behaviour in the first few days represents its permanent personality. Many shelter cats are far more confident, playful and affectionate after a few weeks of stability than anyone expected on day one.

8. Training a Cat Adopted Directly From the Streets

This is a very different situation, and it should be treated separately. A street cat has usually learned to survive without any of the things a home provides. It may not understand:

• Litter boxes
• Doors and windows
• Household sounds, such as fans, mixers and washing machines
• Furniture and appliances
• Cat carriers
• Being handled, including nail trimming and grooming
• Being confined indoors

Start With Household Adaptation

• 1
  Give the cat one safe room to begin with, instead of the whole house, so the new world is manageable.
• 2
  Establish food and water routines, at the same times and in the same places each day.
• 3
  Introduce the litter box. Many street cats are used to digging in soil or sand, so a litter similar to what they used outdoors can help at first, before gradually moving to a regular litter.
• 4
  Provide hiding places, such as a covered bed or a cardboard box with a blanket.
• 5
  Provide scratching surfaces, such as a sturdy post or a cardboard scratcher.
• 6
  Let the cat explore gradually, opening up more of the home as its confidence grows.
• 7
  Use positive reinforcement to reward calm behaviour, such as eating near you or exploring a new spot.

9. Litter Training

Litter habits are the single most important thing to get right, because a litter box problem is the most common reason cats lose their homes. The good news is that cats instinctively like to dig and bury their waste, so most only need the right setup. If a cat is not using the box, the cause is almost always something about the box, the litter, the location or the cat's health, and almost never defiance.

Setting Up the Litter Box

• Choose a quiet, accessible location, away from noisy appliances and busy walkways
• Keep the box away from food and water, since cats dislike eating near their toilet
• Keep it clean, scooping at least once a day and washing it regularly with mild, unscented soap
• Provide enough boxes for the number of cats in the household, with a good rule being one box per cat plus one extra
• Use a litter type the cat is comfortable with, and avoid strongly scented litters, which many cats dislike
• Choose a box large enough for the cat to turn around in comfortably, and with a low entry for kittens and seniors

If the Cat Does Not Use the Litter Box

Work through the possible causes one at a time before assuming it is a behaviour problem:

• 🧹
  Is the Box Dirty? Cats are fussy about cleanliness, and a box that has not been scooped may be refused.
• 🔊
  Is the Location Noisy? A box next to a washing machine, a busy doorway or a loud television can make a cat feel exposed and unsafe.
• 🪜
  Is the Box Difficult to Access? High sides, a covered hood that feels cramped, or a location up a flight of stairs can put some cats off, particularly kittens and seniors.
• 🏖️
  Does the Cat Dislike the Litter? Some cats prefer fine, sandy litter and refuse coarse or scented types.
• 🔁
  Has the Litter Recently Changed? A sudden switch in brand or type can lead to avoidance. Change gradually, mixing the new litter into the old.
• 🐈
  Is Another Cat Blocking Access? In multi-cat homes, one cat may guard the box or ambush others on the way in.
• 😟
  Is the Cat Stressed? A move, a new pet, a visitor or a change in routine can all lead to litter box problems.
• 🩺
  Could There Be a Medical Problem? Urinary tract problems, pain, arthritis and digestive issues can all cause a cat to avoid the box.

When the cat does use the box correctly, quietly reward it with a small treat as it comes out, or praise in a calm voice. Do not punish accidents, and never rub a cat's nose in them. Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleaner designed to remove odour, since lingering smell encourages the cat to return to the same spot.

10. Scratching Training

Scratching is a normal and necessary cat behaviour, not something that should be stopped completely. Cats scratch to stretch, to keep their claws in condition, to mark territory with scent glands in their paws, and to relieve stress. The aim of training is not to stop scratching, but to redirect it to surfaces you are happy with.

Redirect It

Provide a choice of scratching surfaces, because cats have preferences:

• Vertical scratching posts that are tall and sturdy enough for a full stretch
• Horizontal scratchers, such as flat cardboard pads
• Different textures, such as sisal, cardboard and carpet, to find what your cat likes

Where to Place Them

• Near sleeping areas, since cats like to stretch and scratch after waking
• Near existing scratching locations, such as the sofa arm that is already being targeted
• In areas where the cat spends time, rather than hidden in a spare room

Reward appropriate scratching with a treat or praise, and when the cat scratches something it should not, gently redirect it to the post instead of scolding. Trimming the nails regularly also reduces damage. Declawing is a painful amputation and should never be considered.

11. Carrier Training

Carrier training is extremely useful for Indian cat parents, since a cat that panics at the sight of the carrier turns every vet visit into a struggle. The goal is to make the carrier a familiar, comfortable place, instead of something that only appears before an unpleasant journey.

• 1
  Leave the carrier open at home, in a spot where the cat spends time, so it becomes part of the furniture.
• 2
  Put familiar bedding inside, such as a blanket that smells like home.
• 3
  Add treats or food, so there is a reason to go inside.
• 4
  Let the cat investigate voluntarily, without pushing or lifting it in.
• 5
  Gradually reward entering, with a treat each time the cat steps inside.
• 6
  Close the door briefly, then open it and reward.
• 7
  Increase the duration gradually, from a few seconds to a few minutes.
• 8
  Eventually practise short journeys, such as a walk around the home, then a short car ride that ends somewhere pleasant.

12. Training a Cat to Accept Handling

A cat that accepts handling is easier to groom, easier to examine and far less stressed at the vet. Handling training is about teaching the cat, in tiny steps, that being touched in these ways is safe and predictable. Gradually introduce:

• Touching the paws
• Looking at the ears
• Checking the teeth
• Brushing
• Nail trimming
• Being lifted
• Being placed in a carrier

Start with the area the cat enjoys being touched, such as the cheeks or the base of the ears, and add one new step at a time. Touch the paw for one second, reward, then stop. Over days, build up to holding the paw, pressing gently to extend a claw, and finally a single nail trim.

13. Training Around Food

Food training is useful for picky eaters, for multi-cat homes, for cats that steal food, and for cats that become tense or aggressive around meals. Cats feel most secure when food is predictable, and a lot of food-related behaviour problems settle once mealtimes are structured.

• Teach predictable feeding times, so the cat knows when meals happen and does not need to beg or hunt for food
• Teach eating in an appropriate location, such as a quiet corner of the kitchen, rather than the dining table or countertop
• Teach calm behaviour around food, by waiting for the cat to settle before putting the bowl down
• Use separate feeding areas where necessary, particularly in multi-cat homes, so no cat feels threatened or crowded while eating
• Do not punish food-related behaviour, since punishment around meals increases anxiety and often makes guarding or stealing worse

For cats that refuse food or are fussy about it, remember that sudden food refusal is not always training or pickiness. It can signal illness, so see your vet if it lasts more than a day.

14. Training a Cat to Come When Called

Cats can absolutely learn recall. It is a very useful skill, whether you need to find your cat at bedtime, get it into the carrier quickly, or bring it back inside. The key is to make coming to you the best decision the cat can make.

• 1
  Choose a consistent cue, such as the cat's name or a short phrase, and use the same one every time.
• 2
  Call from a short distance, with a treat in your hand, when the cat is relaxed and interested.
• 3
  Reward immediately when the cat comes, within a second or two.
• 4
  Gradually increase the distance, a step at a time.
• 5
  Practise in different rooms, so the cue works throughout the home.
• 6
  Eventually practise in more distracting environments, such as when other people or pets are around.

15. Training Around People

This is especially important for adopted cats, since much of a cat's confidence depends on how the humans around it behave. In many cases, the training is really for the household, not the cat. Teach everyone in the home to:

• Let the cat approach, rather than reaching for it
• Avoid chasing the cat around the home
• Avoid forcing hugs or holding the cat when it is trying to leave
• Avoid cornering the cat, particularly in a small room
• Respect hiding spaces, and never reach in to pull the cat out
• Reward calm interaction, with a treat or a gentle play session

With Children

Children and cats can be wonderful together, but only when children understand how to behave. Teach children to:

• Not pull tails or ears
• Not chase the cat
• Not disturb the cat while it is eating or sleeping
• Not force cuddling
• Let the cat walk away whenever it wants to

Always supervise young children with cats, and reward both the child and the cat for gentle, calm interactions.

16. Introducing a Cat to Other Pets

Introductions deserve a careful, step-by-step process. A rushed introduction can create fear or dislike that lasts for months, while a slow one often leads to a comfortable, long-term relationship. Whatever you do, do not force animals to sort it out themselves. That approach leads to fights, fear and injuries, and it undoes weeks of careful work.

With Another Cat

• 1
  Start with separate spaces, so each cat has its own room, food, water and litter box.
• 2
  Exchange scents, by swapping bedding or rubbing a soft cloth on one cat and leaving it near the other.
• 3
  Feed on opposite sides of a closed door, so each cat links the other's smell with something good.
• 4
  Gradually allow visual contact, through a baby gate or a door cracked open.
• 5
  Supervise initial interactions, keep them short, and end them calmly while things are still going well.

With Dogs

• 1
  Start with separation, so the cat has a dog-free room.
• 2
  Allow scent introduction, by swapping bedding.
• 3
  Keep the dog controlled, on a leash or behind a gate, during early meetings.
• 4
  Give the cat escape routes and elevated spaces, so it can leave whenever it wants.
• 5
  Never allow chasing. Interrupt and redirect the dog calmly, and reward calm behaviour from both animals.

For a detailed walk-through, read our guide on how to raise a cat and dog together.

17. Common Cat Behaviour Problems and How to Address Them

Most behaviour problems have a simple reason behind them: the cat has a need that is not being met, or it is stressed, bored or unwell. Fixing the underlying cause works far better than trying to suppress the behaviour.

• 🛋️
  Scratching Furniture Do not punish. Add scratching surfaces near the furniture and reward their use. Cover the favourite spot temporarily with a cardboard scratcher or double-sided tape while the new habit forms.
• 🦷
  Biting During Play Stop using hands as toys. Redirect to appropriate toys, such as wands and soft kickers. End play calmly, by walking away, when biting becomes excessive.
• 🍳
  Jumping on Counters Remove food rewards by keeping counters clear. Provide alternative elevated spaces, such as shelves and cat trees, and reward use of appropriate places.
• 📢
  Excessive Meowing Look for the underlying reason. Do not automatically reward attention-seeking vocalisation, but do rule out hunger, stress, pain or illness, especially in older cats or if the change is sudden.
• 🫣
  Hiding Do not drag the cat out. Provide safe hiding spaces and build confidence gradually, through calm presence, food rewards and play at a distance the cat is comfortable with.
• 😾
  Aggression Do not physically punish. Identify triggers, such as fear, overstimulation or a particular person or pet, and give the cat space. Seek veterinary or behavioural help if the aggression is persistent or severe, since pain is a common hidden cause.

18. Training a Cat That Is Fearful or Unsocialised

This is particularly important for street cats and poorly socialised cats. A fearful cat is not being difficult. It is frightened, and everything about its behaviour makes sense once you see the world from its point of view. Progress is usually slow and non-linear, and that is normal.

What to Focus On

• Distance: Let the cat decide how close it wants to be, and respect that distance
• Predictability: Keep routines, locations and people consistent
• Food rewards: Use high-value treats to build positive associations with your presence
• Quiet interactions: Sit calmly, speak softly, avoid direct staring, and try slow blinks, which cats read as friendly
• Gradual exposure: Increase new experiences one small step at a time
• Control: Give the cat control over whether to approach, and always leave an escape route

What to Avoid

• Chasing the cat
• Cornering it
• Forced handling
• Loud punishment
• Forcing the cat to interact with strangers

The goal is not to turn every cat into an extremely social lap cat. Some cats will always be reserved, and that is fine. The goal is to help the cat feel safe and comfortable enough to function in its environment, eat, rest, play and move about without constant fear.

19. Positive Reinforcement: The Foundation of Cat Training

Positive reinforcement is the single most effective, kindest and most reliable way to train a cat. The formula is simple:

What Counts as a Reward?

• Small food treats, broken into tiny pieces
• Your cat's favourite food
• Play, such as a short wand toy session
• Affection, if the cat genuinely enjoys it
• Access to something the cat likes, such as a window perch or a favourite spot

The most important point is that the reward must actually matter to that particular cat. A treat that one cat adores may be ignored by another, so experiment to find what motivates yours. You can also use a clicker or a short marker word, such as "yes", to mark the exact moment of the correct behaviour, followed by the reward.

Training Treats: Freeze-Dried Shrimp and Tuna

For training, you want treats that are small, strongly aromatic and highly motivating, since a cat will work much harder for a food it finds irresistible. Single-ingredient freeze-dried treats are ideal for this. They are light, easy to break into tiny pieces, and have a concentrated scent that many cats respond to at once, which makes them particularly useful for shy or newly adopted cats, carrier training and recall practice. Keep the pieces small, count them as part of your cat's daily calories, and keep all treats to roughly 10 percent of the daily total.

Training · Marine · Single Ingredient

Freeze Dried Shrimp

Key ingredients: 100% Freeze Dried Shrimp.

A strongly aromatic marine treat with a scent many cats love. Easy to break into small pieces, which makes it a good everyday reward for carrier training, handling practice and name recognition.

Shop Now

Training · High Value · Single Ingredient

Freeze Dried Tuna Chunks

Key ingredients: 100% Freeze Dried Tuna.

A high-value treat for the moments that matter most, such as the first steps into a carrier, the first touch of a paw, or the first time a nervous cat comes out of hiding. Crumble over meals as a topper for picky eaters too.

Shop Now

20. What Not to Do When Training a Cat

What you avoid matters as much as what you do. Most of the things people try out of frustration make the problem worse, because they damage trust and teach the cat to fear you instead of changing the behaviour.

• Do not hit the cat
• Do not shout at it
• Do not rub its nose in accidents
• Do not spray it with water as punishment
• Do not chase it
• Do not force physical affection
• Do not punish fear
• Do not punish normal scratching
• Do not lock the cat away as punishment
• Do not expect instant results

Punishment does not tell a cat what you want it to do. It only teaches the cat that you, or certain places and moments, are unpredictable and unsafe, and that can lead to hiding, aggression and stress-related health problems such as urinary issues.

21. Training Timeline: What to Teach at Different Ages

• 🛣️
  Street-Adopted Cat Household adaptation comes first. Give the cat a safe room, build trust, introduce the litter box and household sounds gradually, and only then work on handling, carrier comfort and other skills.
• 🏠
  Shelter-Adopted Cat Decompression, routine and understanding existing behaviours come first. Find out what the cat already knows, and build on it, rather than starting from zero.

22. When Behaviour Problems Need a Vet

This is very important, because not every behaviour issue is a training issue. Cats hide pain and illness extremely well, and a change in behaviour is often the only sign that something is wrong. A cat that suddenly "misbehaves" is frequently a cat that is in pain, frightened or unwell.

Seek Veterinary Advice for

• Sudden litter-box avoidance
• Sudden aggression
• Sudden hiding
• Sudden appetite changes
• Excessive vocalisation, particularly at night or in older cats
• Sudden changes in grooming, such as over-grooming or stopping grooming
• Changes in urination
• Straining to urinate
• Sudden withdrawal from people or activities
• Any major unexplained behaviour change

A behaviour change can sometimes be caused by pain, illness or stress, and treating the cause is the fastest way to fix it. If your vet finds nothing wrong, a qualified cat behaviourist can help, particularly for persistent aggression, severe fear or long-running litter box problems.

Frequently Asked Questions

Training a Cat Is Really About Trust

Training a cat is less about commands and more about building trust, comfort and good habits, one small, rewarding step at a time. Whether you have a new kitten, a settled adult, a senior, a shelter cat or a cat rescued from the street, the same principles apply: understand where the cat has come from, set up the environment so the right behaviour is easy, reward what you like, never punish fear, and take your time. When a behaviour suddenly changes, look for pain or illness before blaming training. A cat that feels safe is a cat that learns, and the patience you invest early pays back for years.

• Set up the litter box, scratching post, hiding space and carrier before the cat arrives
• Give a newly adopted cat a quiet room, a routine and time to decompress
• Reward good behaviour immediately, with treats the cat truly values
• Keep training sessions short, gradual and positive
• Introduce people and other pets slowly, and never force interactions
• Treat sudden behaviour changes as a reason to check with a vet
• Never use punishment, shouting, water sprays or force